Wassailing

"Old apple tree, we'll wassail thee'

And hoping thou wilt bear.

The Lord does know where we shall be,

To be merry another year.

To blow and to bear well,

And so merry let us be;

Let ev'ry man drink up his cup,

And health to the apple tree."

Photo by Colin Cater

Wassailing, a winter tradition occurring on the twelfth night, between January 5th and January 17th ('old twelvey' from the Julian calendar), is not as widespread as it used to be. Most of its associated customs are now primarily found in folklore. This celebration involves dancing and drinking cider in orchards to honour the trees and ensure a bountiful harvest in the upcoming months. Wassail comes from the Saxon word 'Waes Hael' which means 'Good Health'

Wassail is typically celebrated with the new year, where people spread joy by singing and dancing as they visit homes with their wassailing bowl. The residents of these homes are blessed for the year as they fill the bowl with warm spiced cider for the performers. Fruit growers and farmers bless the orchard trees with storytelling and songs. They dance around the trees and pass around the wassailing bowl of warm spiced cider. The giver invites the next person to drink by saying 'Waes Hael', and the receiver replies with 'Drink Hael' (drink well), before offering the trees the spiced cider from their bowl and bread for the good spirit protecting the orchard. They drive out the bad spirit with lively singing, dancing, and gunshots. Some farmers also bless their best animals similarly, pouring cider on them and adding a sprig of rosemary for gratitude and protection. They tell stories, mentioning their best stock of animals and including their names to ensure healthy offspring, and then bless their home by drinking more warm, spiced cider and eating wassailing cake.

Ingredients

• 225g eating apples

• 110g raisins

• 225g cider

• 170g butter

• 100g (4 tbsp) honey

• 4 medium eggs (approx 190g egg white & yolk)

• 200g self-raising flour

• 2 tsp baking powder

Method

Grease and line an 18cm square baking tin, or similar.

1. Preheat the oven to 180C.

2. Put the raisins in a saucepan, cover with the cider, bring to the boil then remove from the heat.

3. Add the apple pieces to the cider and raisins, and allow to cool while you continue.

4. Cream the butter and honey then gradually add the beaten egg. If it starts to curdle, add a little of the flour.

5. Sieve together the flour and baking powder.

6. Add half the flour to the batter, and combine.

7. Add half the cider mixture to the batter, and combine.

8. Add the other half of the flour and fold in.

9. Add the rest of the cider mix and carefully combine, until the mixture is uniformly mixed, but not over-mixed.

10. Pour the mix into the tin.

11. Bake for about an hour, or until risen and firm.

Recipe by Marjorie Clarke.

Celebrating your trees and animals and spreading joy and happiness is a wonderful way to reconnect with the natural world, reminding us that we are part of nature and celebrating the gradually lengthening days ahead. While it may not be in the traditional sense of wassailing, this serves as a reminder to express gratitude for the upcoming harvest developing in the dormant trees and expectant bellies. It helps dispel the winter blues and strengthens your connection to the winter season and its time of stillness and rest, as we mirror the behaviour of the trees. It's also a perfect reason to enjoy some warm mulled cider!